How to Achieve Sharp Photos: Part 2

Ok, so in my last post, I identified 2 potential problems with focus: poor metering and equipment malfunction. Once you’ve got a handle on those two problems, there are still other things you can do to get sharper focus to your images.

Helpful Hint #1: Use Correctly-Placed, Selective AF Points 

Bottom line, if you want to get perfect focus every time, learn how to see and accurately focus your lenses manually. That’s the only sure fire fix for consistently perfectly focused images. Of course, it’s a serious skill that takes study and a lot of practice. But for those of us who need a faster focus than manual will give (or just don’t want to hassle with it), there are a few things you can do. 

When you’re shooting in automatic focusing mode (AF), many people leave it up to the camera to choose what it wants to focus on. And for most people in general shooting situations, this works just fine. However, when you’re on a professional shoot, close enough just doesn’t cut it. You need to get your focus right nearly every time. Most DSLR’s will allow you to force the camera to focus on a specific focal point within the camera. This is something I do every time, on every shot. I tell the camera exactly where I want the focal point to be, covering the area with the red focal point I’ve selected. It takes some time to train yourself to change focal points without having to think about it too much. But once you do, you’ll find your fingers automatically changing the focal points as you shoot to get the focal points exactly where you want them to be. 

As you do this, realize that focus almost always falls back from the focal point selected. So focus on the object that is closest to you that you want to be in focus. The focal depth will fall back from that point. Don’t plan on anything in front of the focal point being in sharp focus, though usually the focus will gradually become blurry as it fades forward. For a large group portrait, I place the focal point on the person’s face who is closest to the camera, not grandpa who is sitting in the middle of the group. If you place your focal point on grandpa, only the people who are behind him in the focal plane will be in focus. All the people in front will be varying degrees of blurry.

Additionally, I know a lot of professionals who use back button focusing. I personally don’t use back button focusing as I’ve never felt the need for it, but I know many love it and feel that it really helps them achieve sharp images. You can google more info about it, if you’d like. 

Helpful Hint #2: If the Eyes Are Sharp, Everything Looks Sharp 

This is the most basic tip for achieving a seemingly sharp image. People look at the eyes of the subject in a photo first; it’s a natural human instinct. Therefore, if the eyes of the photo are sharp, the rest of the photo will be deemed technically sharp. If the eyes aren’t in focus, the photo will usually be considered technically out-of-focus. When shooting, getting properly focused eyes are my #1 priority. 

But how to do this? 

Well, for a portrait, I place the focal point (see hint #1 above) between the person‘s eyes. That way, the eyes, lips and usually nose will be in focus, assuming you've chosen a suitable aperture for the depth of field needed in the shot. I also do some selective sharpening in Photoshop to enhance an already adequately sharp image. 

Helpful Hint #3: Use Selective Sharpening in Photoshop

After working to get focus right in camera, there are a few things you can do in Photoshop to enhance an already adequately sharp image. From the start, however, please note that really nothing can make a blurry photo look well-focused. Photoshop can “fix” a lot of problems, but poor focus is not one of them. 

If you shoot RAW, your image will not have any in-camera sharpening applied to it. Additionally, I suggest keeping in-camera jpeg sharpening parameters low. I prefer to apply digital sharpening myself in Photoshop and not artificially in camera. Generally, when bringing a RAW photo into PS, I will apply a little sharpening to it in Adobe Camera RAW or Lightroom (like sharpening of 25). Such sharpening at this stage acts as a “defog” or a gentle cleansing of the lines, removing some of the fogginess that is inherent in digital images. From there, I will edit the photo in Photoshop, applying a boost to contrast among other things. The contrast boost further helps to separate visual elements and also enhances sharpness. 

Once I’m satisfied with my edit, I will usually apply a little selective sharpening. I apply sharpening selectively to just those parts of the image that must be sharp, usually not the entire image. The reason for this is simple: digital sharpening adds noise to the image. And I want to keep noise to a minimum. Also, hair, fur, grass or anything close to it should NEVER be sharpened beyond a general defog. Such elements easily show digital pixilation when overly sharpened. 

Using USM or smart sharpen (depending on your version of PS), I duplicate my background layer and then lightly sharpen the image, focusing on the eyes. From there, I paint out all sharpness from the layer, leaving just those elements that I wanted to be a little sharper. This is usually eyes, but also nose and sometimes lips.

Most of my action sets include a selective sharpening action that sets up the layers for you to do this.

Another little trick, oftentimes you will have one eye that is slightly more in focus than the other. Or two people where one person’s eyes are in better focus than the other. When this happens, I will sharpen just the eye(s) that are not as sharp, making them look the same sharpness as the eyes that are more sharply focused. This uniformity of focus will generally make the entire image seem sharp. 

Helpful Hint #4: Sharpness Is Overrated! 

Ok, after this big, long discussion of focus, realize that in most instances, razor sharp focus is overrated. Yes, your photos need to be adequately sharp and free of technical blurriness, but after that, a slightly out of focus eye does not necessarily ruin a photo. Look at professional magazines and you’ll quickly see what I mean. A good number of photos in print today, even those in publications that pride themselves on their photography like National Geographic, are not perfectly focused. Oftentimes, the emotion and composition of the photo override any slight technical problems. 

So realize, in the end, that a bland, technically perfect photo is never preferable to a dynamic, wonderful photo that though not perfect, is good enough.

So that's my basic lowdown on sharpening. You can get insanely technical with it, but in reality, there's a huge range of acceptability when it comes to sharpness. I like to keep my photos more natural looking, and hence, I like to make my images sharp in camera, instead of relying on digital sharpening, which can make a photo look a little too digitized.

On another topic, stay tuned for more news! I'm launching some new Flourish products on Monday (think brushes, textures and even some borders!), so take time now to opt in to my newsletter on my Flourish site (oh, and if the form states that it can't add you, then that means that you're already on the list!). I'll be sending out an announcement email and maybe even a coupon or two! So stay tuned!!

Comments

[Al]

I am sorry but you do not have your information correct concerning depth of field and how it relates to your aperture. I have been in the photography busy for 25 years, and have been shooting professionally for 27 years. You should invest in a good depth of field calculator. This info that you have put on this blog has is mostly inaccurate. Large (small #)aperature=shallow depth of field or narrow focusing area. Small aperture (larger#) creats wide depth of field. From your focal point you have the same amount of depth of field in front and in back of the focal point. I am sorry if I sound smug about this, but I felt that this needed to be corrected.

[evie]

Fabulous information. I have been putting incredible pressure on myself to get tack sharp shots every time and after reading this, I "get" what you're saying. Thanks for putting out these two posts, the information is invaluable.

[Valerie]

Thank you so much Nicole...I am inspired by your work and am really trying hard to get my visions and great ideas to show up in my photo's. I would LOVE to take a class but I am just shooting my kids and family so maybe one day...I have to figure out this aperture thing though, it is killing me! I have a Rebel XTI and didn't get the kit lens but got a Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Image Stabilizer USM Autofocus Lens which wasn't cheap but I think I might take your advice and go with the 50mm for a while. I have taken some really cute pictures but lighting and focus is my biggest issue and it is a big deal. Any tip from you are great! Oh and I LOVE lightroom and use PS often...

[Daniela Lamarão]

Thanks, thanks and more thanks for this tips. I have learned a lot with you. I just love your work and it is a inspiration to me.

[Michele]

Well said, N!!!

[Skye Johansen]

Nichole, you are so awesome, I need to practice with the selective focus points. Thanks so much for the info, you are so nice to share. Your orchard pictures are just stunning (well they all are actually!) Thanks

[kristin cook]

Nichole, how exactly do you selectively sharpen just a particular area? I have cs3. thanks!

[Sandy]

I can't tell you how much I appreciated these tips. I'm trying to teach myself about my new camera and lens. I've picked up countless books and have taken numerous shots but there was something missing. My entire focus philosophy was wrong and I had no idea. I never knew that focus falls back! That may be ridiculous but I didn't know. I've always heard that you should focus on the eyes. So, I kept focusing on an eye but the eye that was farther away. I was frustrated when both eyes weren't always sharp. This one tidbit of knowledge has made a huge difference for me. Thank you so much for this type of post.

[jackie]

Thank you for taking the time to explain where to focus in a group setting. I couldn't even get 2 people focused and was frustrated! so... I'm so glad I came across your blog!! All your tips are so helpful and your work is amazing!!!

[Laura]

These tips helped me sooo much this past weekend on my first newbie shoot...I was totally amazed at the difference...I have a Canon 40D which is wonderful but adjusting the shutterspeed and boosting the contrast helped me most! Thanks for sharing your wealth of talent with us!

[Jodi Palmer]

Hi Nichole, I love your actions that I've purchased they are wonderful! I do have a question about metering. I struggle when I'm doing a shoot to be in Manual mode the whole time. What are some suggestions in getting the correct meter? I was taught to use a grey card but it seems I have to meter for each shot so I'd rather be in Program Mode. Any tips would be great.

Jodi

[tc]

With fast moving children, you still about to move around the focusing point? I find myself, over here, over there, and it makes it hard to choose a point. If I do, I will have to change it every other shot. What's your input on this?

[elizabeth]

More great info.. thanks for sharing your gift with us all.

[Michelle]

Thanks so much Nicole for sharing these tips with us. You are so kind to take the time to inform us on taking better photos. Much appreciation and many, many thanks to you.
My best
Michelle J.

[Britney]

Great tips Nichole, thanks so much!

[Jane]

Another great post, very helpful.

One question - in my camera (Pentax K100D) there are three choices for AF - one is basically the whole image, one is a more selective area and the third is just one point. I would assume that they are all useful in different circumstances, but which mode would you suggest for portraits?

[Ivan Makarov]

Nichole -
I'm glad you brought up the last point. We just came home from Annie Leibowitz exhibit here in SF, and one thing I got from her work - the eyes don't have to be perfectly focused in a well executed powerful portrait. Overall expression and meaning of the image matter much more. She had plenty of portraits where eyes or the whole person were what we would consider out-of-focus or unsharp, yet photographs were still moving.

[Melissa]

Wow, great info. I am an amature photographer at best. I consider it a passion but I am just learning. I love reading other photo blogs that inspire me. I think I will check back here often to read your notes, etc...I only wish you had some tutorials for Photo Impact. That is the photo editor I am currently using, although I may end up getting Photoshop at some point. I really need to learn my camera better too as that helps make a great photo. I have a Canon Digital Rebel. Anyway, just wanted to say you do great work, thanks for the inspiration!